Tuesday, September 8, 2009

Taming the Skunk

The winner of the very first High Times Cannabis Cup in Amsterdam was a wonderful strain named Skunk #1. Skunk has been with us since cannabis first became a California crop in the 1970s.

The skunk is appropriately named. There are exceptionally acrid varieties of marijuana skunk that rival the stench of the live mammal. Thankfully, a lot of the skunk smell has been bred out of many of the myriad of hybrids that are now available, allowing the strain to be grown much more easily indoors. However, even the mildest strains of cannabis can have a considerable tell-tale odor that oftentimes must be mitigated if one is to grow indoors or out.

There are many ways to mitigate smell. The industrial-strength method, used by most larger indoor growers, is to utilize a can filter. This equipment utilizes a strong fan to pass air through a huge can of activated charcoal, often over 100 lbs. total, and the odor is absorbed from the air. There are two ways that a can filter can be utilized. The fan can be set on top of the can in the corner of the grow room with no other ducting. The air in the room is sucked through the charcoal over and over, effectively scrubbing all the odor-causing elements from the air. Some say that this method actually diminishes the aroma of the finished product after it has been dried and cured. (I kind-of doubt it. Odorous terpenes in the plant are not going to be affected by scrubbing the air. I could be wrong …).

The other way that a can filter is used is to scrub the air as it is exhausted from the room. This is not as effective as the method previously described because the air only passes through the charcoal once before it is blown outside. Larger collective gardens have found success by utilizing both methods simultaneously. (It is often necessary to add additional odor-mitigating measures when a crop is drying. Two can filters may be necessary during this phase). Smaller and less-expensive can filters are available for smaller grow-rooms.

There are number of ways other than the tried-and-true can filters that are often employed and are frequently up to the task. Some growers keep a mesh bag full of crumpled fabric softener sheets in the exhaust outlet. This covers up the cannabis smell, but it smells like someone is doing laundry 24 / 7. There’s a great, and inexpensive, product called ONA. It stands for odor neutralizing agent … and it really is. An $8.00 can is left open in the grow room, and another is kept in the exhaust outlet. It is surprisingly effective for about three weeks.

Companion planting is another good technique. Various shrubs are planted outside the house, near the grow room exhaust. Jasmine, rosemary, and peppermint are some favorites.

Some people cook a lot of stew, spaghetti sauce, soups, etc. during drying time and freeze everything in the vacuum freezer bags that they have for sealing the buds when dry. This provides lots of fresh-frozen foods during most of the grow cycle. Back in the early days of Dharma Producers Group, which ran a dispensary in the old Warfield building in downtown San Francisco, the growers covered the smell of the plants with stews and soups that were vacuum sealed, frozen, and then given to needy patients to take home.

A three-pound can of ground coffee and a crock-pot can fill the house with intense coffee smells for about a month. Turn the crock pot on low and add one coffee measure of dry ground coffee. It will smell for about six hours, at which time another dose is added on top of the first one. Keep repeating until the coffee can is empty and the crock pot is full. When the crock-pot full of dried coffee ceases to put out much odors, fill it with hot water. Viola! Three or four days of intense coffee smell. There is another advantage in the coffee technique that some growers might find welcome, especially if they would rather not have much interaction with neighbors. If one acts sufficiently nervous and jumpy to justify 24 hour caffeine consumption, the neighbors might choose to socialize with others who are more laid-back, so to speak. Just a thought.

One of the most inventive techniques I’ve seen is the fix-the-roof method. Most people know that horrendous gagging smell when a neighbor is having the roof repaired. It comes from the melted tar pots and completely stinks up about four square blocks. Our hero bought a tar pot and fixed his roof each year at about the time the super skunk plants in his back yard started doing their seasonal thing. After a few years, he had the thickest roof on the block. The neighbors thought that, instead of a backyard grower, he was merely a rotten roofer. He made it a point to complain about all the unfindable roof leaks every time it rained. The neighborhood kind of left him alone.

A final, not-very-related, thought comes to mind. The guy that developed the crock pot / coffee technique described above grew in a third-floor apartment. He once had a hydro spill that flooded his apartment and ran through the floor into the landlord’s apartment downstairs. The guy had the forethought to keep a large aquarium in his living room. He quickly drained it and, when the landlord arrived, began crying about his poor dead fish. The landlord assumed the water was from the aquarium and had no thought of going into the bedroom. From this point on, the guy kept a large supply of unwrapped rockwool slabs right beside his reservoir. He had another leak a few months later and the slabs soaked up every drop before it could go through into his landlord’s ceiling.

Big Blower - Little Bucks!

Super Blower Deal

 Here’s a big, powerful squirrel-cage blower for only $79.00 at Home Depot. Sometimes they have them in stock, but often you need to order off the net. Here’s the URL:

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Search?keyword=lasko%2Bblower&langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053.

One of these blowing in and one sucking out moves a whole lot of air. If your humidity is borderline and all you have is an exhaust fan removing the stale air from your room, consider adding one of these little powerhouses to blow fresh air into the growroom. There’s a good chance you can solve the problem for a lot cheaper than with an air conditioner or dehumidifier. Stick with the big Lasko blower ($79.00). I tried the smaller $49.00 Black and Decker and it worked great … for about 6 months. Then it started making a huge racket. Then it died. The Lasko has been running well for quite a while and looks like it will have some durability.

Grow Tents

Here is a popular topic in the grow classes.

A grow tent is a light-proof cubical enclosure made of fabric with a highly-reflective surface inside. It holds an HID light or two and the good ones provide an excellent grow environment inside. The sizes range from about 4 x 4 feet square to about 5 x 8. The main advantage of a grow tent is that it can sit in the corner of a bedroom, for example, and provide a light-tight growing environment. This is very important because the plants must receive 12 hours of complete and uninterrupted darkness during the flowering period.

The grow tents are engineered to safely hold the light fixtures, fans, and ducting and generally provide a waterproof (or at least water-resistant) covering for the floor. The main reason the tents are popular is because of their convenience. A grower can buy one at the grow store, add the fans and lights, set the rig up in the corner, run the exhaust duct out the window, add the plants, and off they go! A pretty good deal for a few hundred bucks.

If money is tight, a really nice rig can be built from rigid foam insulation sheets that are available at the Home Depot. The 1” thick x 4‘ x 8’ sheets are backed with reflective foil on each side and cost about twenty bucks each. The foam can be cut with a steak knife to make doors and vent holes. Foil-backed duct tape is very strong, sticky, and light proof, and it sticks to the foil-backed foamboard very well. The foamboard is very easy to work with and can be just the thing for making relatively-solid, light-proof walls, blocking out windows, etc.

Be careful if ever buying a used grow tent. Some were manufactured in China from improperly-made synthetic fabric, which off-gasses fumes toxic enough to kill some strains of cannabis. Craig's list? Check it out real well!

Also be sure to vent the exhaust out a window, or perhaps into an attic or basement. Some growers set up the tent the first time and merely exhaust the air from the tent into the room that houses it. This defeats the whole purpose of ventilation after a while and raises both the heat and humidity. Be sure to blow the stale air into a separate, outdoors environment.

Ending Powdery Mildew

Treating Powdery Mildew

Beware the cursed powdery mildew, a mold that grows on your leaves and buds. It looks like somebody sprinkled little roundish spots of talcum powder on your leaves. It saps the strength and vigor of your plants, and, when smoked, may pose a health hazard to those with compromised immune systems.

There are a few ways to fight the dreaded PM. Regular sprayings with neem oil during veg and early flowering is successfully employed by some growers. Some use Serenade, an organic bio-fungal, and there are a few other products available at the grow store that work to varying degrees. An organic “systemic” called Aqua-Shield is available from Botanicare. It is made from composted “poultry litter”. (I’m glad I’m not the guy with the job of brewing that stuff up).

 The best method, of course, is to not get the stuff to begin with. Keep the humidity way down and provide the plants with a lot of internal air circulation.

Another way to not get PM, and to successfully get rid of it if you do get it, is to evaporate sulfur. Sulfur is a naturally occurring element that has been around since forever, and the human body is used to it. As the sulfur can be used in its natural state, treatment with evaporated sulfur is within the bounds of organic gardening techniques.

In essence, a device heats up the sulfur until it melts at about 360 degrees Fahrenheit, and the sulfur fumes coat everything in the room or greenhouse. This raises the pH of the leaves and flowers to about 11, and no mold can grow at that level of pH. Greenhouses have used sulfur evaporation to prevent and treat molds and fungi for decades.

The same techniques work just as well in an indoor gro room. Sulfur evaporators are available at the grow store. They look like a paint can with a bail handle, and electric cord, and a tuna fish can on top. The operation is pretty simple. The heating element raises the temperature of the sulfur until it melts, and the fumes fill the room and coat the plants.

Beware the sulfur evaporators that come from the grow store. They cost over $100. and have a nasty habit of bursting into flame, burning up all the sulfur in a few minutes, and filling the room with enough fumes to kill all the plants immediately. (In all fairness to the sulfur evaporator manufacturers, they have changed their operating instructions to lessen the possibility of a fire by raising the sulfur cup up off the burner by an inch. I thank them for this, but I wish they would have made the change before I bought the damn thing.)

Instead of spending a hundred  on one of these, a frugal grower can go to Wal-Mart and buy a Rival electric skillet for $19.95. Buy your sulfur at the grow store. Turn off all the fans, turn off the grow lights, fill the fry pan about a half inch with sulfur, set the temperature to 400 degrees, and melt the sulfur. Turn the fry pan off after the fumes fill the room. Don’t breathe the sulfur fumes.

Sulfur fumigation does impart a sulfur taste to the produce if done too close to harvest. However, a tiny bit of sulfur in the aroma is far better than a crop ruined by PM. Light sulfuring done on a weekly basis will prevent PM from spreading or reoccurring. Heavier sulfuring every four or five days will eliminate a substantial infestation after a few weeks.

Sulfuring also treats, prevents, and eliminates bud rot. It controls thrips by interrupting their reproductive cycle, and spider mites would rather set up housekeeping somewhere other than in a sulfured grow room. Just be careful not to overdo it. Too much sulfur results in burned pistils in the buds closest to the evaporator, but the growth of the bud does not seemed to be compromised very much, if at all. Way too much sulfur turns the leaves yellow in the margins between the veins.

There is a controversy as to whether one should run a circulating fan while sulfuring. I run an oscillating fan at slow speed in the grow room for about half of the time I am sulfuring.

Sunday, August 23, 2009

Spider Mite Breakthru? Mellow Yellow banana peel revivial?

Here’s a powerful new organic weapon in the battle against spider mites and other pests. And it has a real interesting twist: The main insecticidial element in an organic bug treatment made from orange peels is a terpene found in cannabis that reduces anxiety! That’s right. d-Limonene is one of the hundreds of active elements found in marijuana, and it has been shown to have anti-anxiety effects. A new bug spray, available at health food stores and many hardware stores, is called Orange Guard. It contains 5.6% limonene which has been extracted from orange peels. This is exactly the same organic element to which researchers have attributed psychoactive properties to in cannabis.

A gallon of Orange Guard retails for about twenty bucks. It contains about six ounces of pure limonene. All the other elements in Orange Guard as listed by the Center for Disease Control as “GRAS”, or “generally regarded as safe” for human consumption. And, yes, it seems to be very effective against spider mites … but, first I will answer that burning question that just popped into your mind. But, before I do that, let me say one thing: Don’t ever drink bug spray of any kind for any reason whatsoever.

Here’s what happened to the guy who did try the Orange Guard for the limonene – nothing. And he said he wasn’t at all anxious after he chugged the stuff down, so he feels that the anti-anxiety properties may be present.

He actually consumed one millilitre of the stuff, expecting 56 milligrams of limonene (Orange Guard is 5.6% limonene). Plans are to try the experiment again when he hasn't medicated for a few days to see if any effects are more apparant.

Hopefully, the knowledge that one can actually consume psychoactive chemicals found in cannabis by drinking Orange Guard bug spray or eating orange peels won’t trigger a rebirth of a new form of the 1960s fad of smoking dried banana peels.

Listen to AM radio much in the Bay Area and you have heard a million ads for Planet Orange, a company that uses orange oil to kill termites. Termites are very tough to kill, and the orange oil does a great job.

Here’s our testing results to date using Orange Guard on medicinal cannabis.

1. I drenched a lower branch of an indoor indica every day for a week. Heavy spray. HPS lights on. No wash off. Absolutely no damage to plant visible. Orange oil seems to have the same “leaf polish” qualities as neem oil.

2. A friend sprayed a house plant that was heavily infested with spider mites. Killed the mites completely with no damage to the plant.

I have not had the opportunity to try Orange Guard on a live spider-mite infestation in cannabis, and I hope I don’t get that opportunity anytime soon. But if any of you fellow growers get the dreaded mites, you might want to give the Orange Guard a try … and share the results with us here.

Become a Patient Cultivator for DharmaRx.org

Do you produce medicinal cannabis for your own needs? Do you occasionally produce more than you need? Would you like to share your excess with other patients, and legally recover your costs of production? Or would you like to learn how to grow your own medicine, and perhaps a bit more to share with other members of your community.

What was once a deep, dark, grey area of the law has been thankfully clarified by AG Brown’s August 2008 Guidelines. Since the passage of Prop. 215 in 1996, and the subsequent legal battles that have allowed legitimate medicinal cannabis dispensaries to become part of the California landscape, little has been done until recently to address the source of the cannabis offered by the dispensaries. AG Brown's 2008 guidelines provide systems and procedures for individuals and collectives to legally produce medicinal cannabis for other members of their co-op or collective.

One of the prime functions of DharmaRx.org is to facilitate production of clean, high-quality cannabis medicine by members of our cooperative community, to be used by other members of our community. This is in accord with AG Brown’s “closed loop” guidelines and is seen by both AG Brown and the DharmaRx community as the best way to provide patients with their necessary medications. If you are currently producing high-quality medicinal cannabis and would like to become a member patient / cultivator, just call or e-mail and tell us about the meds you produce. To quote a wonderful quote originated by a SoCal dispensary: “We support small organic family farms”.

D. Gold’s Organic Grow Method

For the last two years, D. Gold has taught the free Sunday Afternoon Grow Class at Harborside Health Center in Oakland. The class starts at 2:00 every Sunday and goes until 6:00. Over a thousand patients have attended the classes, which are always free.

The classes emphasize the need for simplicity when beginning; more complicated high-tech enhancements are best added after initial success. The beginner’s course is designed to be as simple as possible, yet contain the necessary nutrients and additives to grow high-quality medicine the first time out, with the highest chances for success. Very soon, an instructional video of the entire process will appear here. It’s highly recommended that those with the capacity to do so attend the Sunday Afternoon Grow Classes. Specific questions relating to this growing method can be directed to D. Gold in the member’s forum / blog. Comments, tips, and other input by master growers is always appreciated.

A Simple Method for Organic Growing – indoors and out

Buy:

1. 5 gallon buckets @ Home Depot
2. #14 round plant saucers (if necessary to protect floor)
3. 1 gallon flower pots @ Home Depot
4. Foxfarm Ocean Forest Organic Potting Soil
5. Foxfarm Big Bloom Organic Fertilizer
6. Botanicare Pure Blend Pro Gro
7. General Hydro Subculture B + Subculture M
8. Ph Test Kit or pH meter 9.PH Down (or use lemon juice) and pH up
10. Moisture Meter
11. Mosquito dunks
12. GH Floralicious Plus
13. Rolling plant scooters (Wal-Mart / Home Depot / OSH)
14. Jorge Cervantes Medical Growers Bible
15. (2) large trash cans
16. Double fish tank pump, tubing, bubblestones (Wal-Mart)
17. Neem oil (Einstein Oil)
18. Botanicare Sweet
19. Hi – Lo Thermometer and hygrometer

Prepare Soil:

Mix one bag Foxfarm Ocean Forest, 2 tsp. Subculture B + M (even mix). Use for both 1 gallon and 5 gallon pots. Don’t pack but fill pots to top.

Prepare Water (if using tap water within acceptable TDS limits):

Bubble air thru trash can full of water for at least 2 days. Better yet, use R.O. or Spring water.

Adjust ph of water to 6.3. Put half of a mosquito dunk in can.

Grow plants in 1 gallon pots until root mass fills the pot and a number of roots protrude from the root ball. Don’t let go until roots circle the pot and become rootbound. (1 – 3 weeks for clones).

Saturate soil with pure aerated water and let drain well. Use Pure Blend Pro Gro (sparingly) if any deficiency is noticed in the first 3 weeks.

First Watering:

Mix aerated water, Foxfarm Big Bloom @ 1 oz /gallon, Subculture @ 1/4 tsp./ gallon, 1/4 tsp. floralicious / gallon. Adjust pH to 6.3 after mixing.

Prepare Home Depot buckets by drilling 5 big holes in bottom and filling with soil mix. Do not pack. After transplant, water every time with Big Bloom @ 75% of recommended every-time concentration, ¼ tsp. Floralicious / gallon, 1/4 tsp. Subculture / gallon. Keep pH @ 6.3. Flush monthly with 10 – 15 gallons pH adjusted water.

Flush with pure water for last two weeks before harvest. Grow indoors or out. Induce flowering via photoperiod control. If growing large outdoor plants, an additional transplant is needed into a much bigger container (or amended hole).

This is a simple recipe for growing healthy cannabis plants both indoors or out. Once one is comfortable with this basic recipe for success, many refinements and enhancements can be added. Section coming soon on setting up an indoor grow room.

D. Gold Cal 6-Pak

California law allows each patient to grow six mature plants anywhere in California. The law says that individual cities and counties may pass legislation to allow more, but no locality can pass a limit that is lower than the statewide standard. Here we will cover what I consider to be one of the easiest, least-expensive, and most sure-fire ways to grow a substantial quantity of high-quality meds indoors.

This is the method I have taught in the Sunday grow class at Harborside Health Center, and hundreds of growers have used this simple method to provide themselves and other patients with their necessary medications. We have strived to keep everything as simple and foolproof as possible, yet to still provide all the conditions necessary to produce top-quality medicinal cannabis.

As I say often in the class, spending more money on more complicated equipment in the beginning does not necessarily make the growing easier, or success more likely. In many cases, a complicated high-tech rig with all the bells and whistles may be too difficult for a novice to handle correctly. What is absolutely necessary to successfully grow good cannabis is to maintain the proper conditions and parameters in the grow space. There aren’t many of these factors, and they are easily monitored and regulated. They are: 1) temperature, 2) humidity, 3) light, 4) feeding, 5) pest and mold control.

Temperature. I was recently told by a grower of some wonderful GDP that he believes the ideal temperature for the grow room to be 73 degrees. Sounds right to me! I would put the range at between 60 and 80 degrees for high quality cannabis production with none of the problems that come from a temperature that is too high or too low. If the temperature occasionally goes above 80 but not above 85, that is usually okay. If it stays above 80 all the time, it is best to take steps to lower it.

Humidity. Right around 50% or 55% seems to be ideal. Worry a bit (and take mold prevention procedures) if it stays at 60% or more. If it is staying around 65%, do something fast.

Light. When growing indoors, it is almost always necessary to use a high-powered HID light made especially for the task and available from the grow store. Some growers are actually having some success with compact fluorescents, but on a very limited level (see See More Buds book).

Feeding. By providing the plants with the proper nutrients and growing them in the right organic potting soil, one can expect high-quality medicinal cannabis if all the other factors are met.

Pest and mold control. If all the above factors are accounted for, and pests are kept at bay or eliminated, good results can be expected.

Coming soon here: Building the ideal 6 plant indoor room and growing the ideal 6 plant outdoor garden.  Stay tuned!

DharmaRx.org Cooperative Production Program – Patients Helping Patients

Something new for members of our community. We will help you get started growing for yourself and other members. Here’s how it works:

Attorney General Brown’s guidelines emphasizes that he wants a “closed-loop” system within the collective. In other words, all medicine consumed by members of the collective should be produced by members of the collective. Therefore, dharmaRx.org is instituting a program wherein experienced members of the coop will help set up, teach, and oversee small organic gardens for members who have the desire and capacity to grow for themselves and other members. Beginning growers will be shown all the fine points of medical cannabis production by an expert who will provide hands-on help thru all phases of set-up, production, harvest, etc.

The cannabis produced in the garden will be shared by the patient / cultivator and the coop. The cultivator will be reimbursed for time, materials, effort, and initial investment into the garden according to the procedures described in California law. Due to the sensitive nature and the pioneering aspects of this program, it will be instituted slowly and very carefully as procedures are developed for efficiently managing the program and keeping it exactly like AG Brown wants.

If you have the time, inclination, place, and financial capacity to set up a small organic garden for yourself and other member patients who cannot grow, write us a detailed letter explaining your situation, experience and anything you feel might help us in picking several members to help us develop, refine, and institute this program.

SIDE-BY-SIDE GROW TESTS – YOU CAN PARTICIPATE AND HELP ADVANCE OUR SCIENCE

Our grow class has worked on and developed several new technologies, one of which is the Solaround light mover, a remarkable new twist on light movers which shows tremendous promise. (Check out the “resin-stressed” Hindu Skunk on the menu board!). We are about to conduct two new experiments, and members of DharmaRx who are patient / cultivators can participate. In a nutshell, we are going to do several side-by-side growing experiments, testing the claims of a nutrient manufacturer in one case and the claims of many outdoor growers in another.

Since planting time outdoors is rapidly dwindling as this is written, let’s start with an outdoor experiment. Foxfarm vs. Miracle Grow One of the first things covered in D. Gold’s grow class is the importance of good potting soil. There is a reason that Foxfarm at the grow store costs several times as much as Miracle Grow at Home Depot. The concept of spending another five bucks on potting soil to reap another $100 or more worth of medicine is a pretty sound one.

Miracle Grow potting soil has traditionally contained lots of dirt and very few amendments or nutrients. It has often been said that it would be a miracle if you could grow good cannabis in Miracle Gro. But the company may have recently seen the light. They now have two new potting soil blends that growers are trying with results good enough to talk about. The one side-by-side outdoors test that I recently witnessed produced results that are about equal to Foxfarm, and quite a few other growers have been singing the praises of the product, saying that it gets great yields and quality with a whole lot less work.

Testing potting soil in a controlled experiment is pretty easy. Simply plant the same plants in the two different types of soil and keep all the other conditions the same. One need not be Einstein to be able to observe the differences. In this experiment, we are observing Foxfarm Ocean Forest, Miracle Grow Organic Time Release, and Miracle Grow Time Release (non-organic). If you have a mix you like, add that one also. Water all the plants with the same fertilizer mixture (or lack thereof) and make sure that all the plants grow in identical conditions.

Keep good records of your fertilizer mixtures. Remember that in cases like this, it is probably better to keep the levels of added nutrients relatively light, in order to avoid overfertilization.

The second experiment pits General Hydroponics against Advanced Nutrients. Many members of the class have been bothered by a film on U-tube which claims over 20% THC with Advanced and only about 6% with GH in a side-by-side controlled test. Many believe that THC levels have more to do with genetics than a feeding program and this wide disparity could not have occurred in a true, non-biased, controlled experiment. We will set up a detailed side-by-side experiment that all the patient / cultivator members of dharmaRx.org can participate in, if they so wish. If you are thinking of giving hydro a try, here’s a good opportunity as a detailed method for inexpensive set-up and efficient production will be presented in great detail. Stay tuned!

Organics vs. Hydroponics

Let’s begin with a subject that always comes up in my grow classes: the difference between organics and hydroponics. Here’s my take on it; feel free to add your two cents worth, or call me on mine. I look forward to hearing from you!

While there are several forms of hydro, the general idea is that the roots of the plant hang in a solution of nutrients which supply the plant with all its fertilizer needs. The nutrients are derived from minerals which are usually mined in the desert. Organic growing, as it pertains to modern cannabis production, usually starts with a potting soil containing nutrients derived from animal feces. The plant must go through more metabolic processes to obtain what it needs from the organic nutrients mixed with the soil than it needs to in order to absorb nutrients from a hydroponic solution.

Organic soil growing is kind of like when a human eats a piece of bread. The stomach slowly converts the starch to sugar, which slowly goes out into the body and provides nourishment. Hydroponic growing, on the other hand, is like an intravenous drip of sucrose right into the bloodstream.

As a general rule, organically-grown medicinal cannabis tastes and smells better than hydro and also smokes smoother. For this reason, top-quality organic medicine commands a premium over hydro-grown. Organic hydroponics can be done, but is a more difficult proposition than utilizing mineral nutrients. Botanicare has a chart which shows how to replace the traditional General Hydroponics three-part formula with organics, a little at a time. These formulae can be used to add some organics to the traditional hydro mineral mixes, resulting in an enhanced taste and smell, or can be used to make the shift to 100% organic hydro. I have never actually undergone the GH to Botanicare / mineral to organic hydro conversion, but it seems like a pretty straightforward transition.

About Me

Berkeley, CA, United States
Hello and Welcome to dharma Patients Cooperative! My name is D. Gold and I am the moderator of this blog. Over the years, I've written a few books on the subject of scientific cannabis study, starting with Cannabis Alchemy in 1972.I have taught many others the techniques for cultivating their own medicine. For the last two years or so, I have taught the Sunday afternoon grow class at Harborside Health Center in Oakland. (Every Sunday 2:00 to 6:00 pm. Always free!). While we cover beginning and advanced horticultural techniques, many other subjects come up in our weekly discussions that relate to medicinal cannabis and the movement. We hope to reflect these types of discussions in this blog. So feel free to start discussion topics, ask horticultural questions, share tips and new developments with other members, suggest ways that our community could be better served, promote activism, etc. Give us your two-cents worth. All suggestions are appreciated. Thanks. Dave

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